A little history of watches and a few advices for purchasing the perfect watch. Heritage BiCompax Annual, 41mm stainless steel and 18k rose gold case, cognac brown calfskin leather strap. The resurgent independent watchmaker’s latest model ticks off a number of current trends. The 41mm Heritage Bicompax Annual is based on a Fifties’ archive piece with a “bicompax” two-counter dial, giving it a mid-century feel (tick); it’s available in two-tone steel and rose gold (tick); and it’s also limited (tick). There’ll be 888 of both the two-tone and steel models, determined by the company’s founding year of 1888, rather than out of deference to gamblers. It’s decent value, too. Behind that balanced dial, there’s a clever movement fuelling a chronograph and an annual calendar with date and month indications that only need adjusting on 1 March. The steel is a touch over £5k, with a premium for the solid gold detailing in the two-tone. Modest by the industry’s lengthy yardstick.

Let’s move on to the under 1000 USD category. The latest iteration of Orient’s beloved, mid-century-style dress watch. The domed dial now comes in an excellent slate-gray colorway and features rose gold accents. The watch also gets an updated suede strap. Ticking underneath is an automatic movement from Orient featuring hand-winding and hacking seconds. If you want excellent modern design in a watch, you don’t need to pay much, fortunately. Braun’s BN0211 has won both an iF and a Red Dot award for its minimal, stealthy aesthetic. A yellow seconds hand pops against a stealthy black dial and sleek black case, and the watch comes mounted on a comfortable stainless steel mesh bracelet. With few exceptions, Timex abandoned mechanical movements in favor of digital and quartz movements years ago. That’s exactly why Timex’s reissue of the famed Marlin is so exciting. It’s now available with an automatic movement underneath, and if that weren’t enough, it comes with a sleek case, dial, and strap design that truly look like they were plucked from the 1960s.

Certina, founded in Grenchen, Switzerland in 1888, has always been a rather low-key brand. You may not know, but they were innovators in shock protection and water resistance, which is nearly weapons-grade on this watch. The rotating ceramic diving bezel on this 41mm beauty, usually a hallmark of much more expensive pieces, is scratch resistant and nearly indestructible, and the handsome strap features a deployment clasp. Shinola watches, assembled in Detroit, have sparked a renaissance in the Motor City and for American watch brands in general. One of their latest editions of their most popular design, the Runwell, is a subtle version of what can be a busy style. This is destined to become a classic design that will no doubt age well with it’s stainless steel case and durable leather strap. With a clean ivory-colored face and luminous hands, wearing this watch makes a statement that you value good design, but don’t need an overly expensive timepiece to speak for you.

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